SEAFOOD APPETIZERS: GETTING BACK TO BASICS
By Paul Foster von Kalben
Friday, April 14, 2009
There is no shortage of seafood appetizer options. At a glance, the plethora promises to add an element of diversity and even exotic flair to a menu. The sheer multitude of products means there is something for just about any restaurant operation – casual right up to fine dining.
While the venerable shrimp cocktail and bacon wrapped scallops have found their place on countless menus across Canada and the U.S. – insomuch as they are now commonplace – the success and penetration of seafood in the appetizer section of menus isn’t all rosy. What once had the lure of diversity and uniqueness has become a very homogenized segment. The incentive for these menu items to add increased profits to an operator’s bottom line has led producers to find increasingly inexpensive ways to manufacture these products. As a result, the quality of the raw material has decreased, much has become over processed and it is now all unvaryingly similar in taste.
There is much room for improvement and, arguably, the operator that chooses to go “back to basics” in sourcing natural, fresh (where possible) seafood for appetizers will find a renaissance of sales and profitability from diners seeking quality and value from their restaurant experience.
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As an operator, the best place to start is the ingredient declaration of current products.
Take, for example, the shrimp cocktail. The point of this dish is to highlight the shrimp. To do so, the shrimp should be served as natural as possible.
It is surprising then that nearly all shrimp coming into North America, which includes the shrimp found in most shrimp cocktails, is a multi-ingredient item. Most labels read shrimp, sodium tri-polyphosphate, salt, water – or some variation of this. These ingredients are processing agents that act to increase weight and water retention prior to freezing and, invariably, affect taste.
When compared, a natural shrimp contains approximately 80 milligrams (mg) of sodium per serving while a typical shrimp found either in a grocery store or restaurant contains upwards of 500 mg. As follows, the flavour diners have come accustomed to is salt, not shrimp. Side by side, natural shrimp has a vastly less “salty” taste; it is also denser with a significantly “crunchier” texture and much more pronounced and vibrant colour.
This provides the operator who markets natural shrimp in its dishes a point of differentiation and “value.” They are able to offer a better dining experience that results in repeat customers and increased sales. And, in most cases, it is merely the cost of moving down a size.
Most scallop product items are also in need revitalization. Available in a natural, untreated form and, in many cases, fresh, unprocessed scallops offer a significantly different eating experience than traditionally processed frozen forms. When buying fresh and unprocessed products, the lines of traceability and sustainability are predictably much clearer and the priority is typically quality over price. The cost associated with making the switch to “natural” scallops is not as significant as thought, so “natural” scallops do not have to be limited to white tablecloth restaurants.
Any products that have a “story” or a point of differentiation will add value to the dining experience. In today’s food service climate, customers are looking for value, which doesn’t mean the most food for the lowest price. Rather, they are looking for quality, taste and food they can feel good about. This means going back to basics and re-embracing natural and fresh ingredients – ingredients people will come back for.
Paul Foster von Kalben heads up fresh seafood and poultry procurement for Macgregors Meat & Seafood Ltd., is a “Center of the Plate” protein specialist supplier to the food service industry. Paul has a culinary and restaurant operations management background. He has worked in seafood procurement and marketing at Macgregors for seven years.
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